Are we really into our third week in Izmir already? The
Sunday morning service went well – music led by piano, violin and guitar; there
were slightly reduced numbers (but including two who normally attend a Catholic
church.) Perhaps Jo and I have ‘tuned into’ the congregation more fully.
It’s good that there are usually new people in church
each week, including a small number of younger people, who have been drawn to
St John’s out of – what? - interest, curiosity, a genuine searching for the
truth? I don’t think it matters what their motives are; their presence at the
Eucharist, and the welcome they receive, exposes them to the presence of the
living God, which can’t be bad! And now that the church is being kept open more
often, the numbers coming in off the street have increased enormously. On
Saturday, nearly two hundred people came through the doors; many of them were
young. There was a similar phenomenon last Tuesday when we went to Bornova, to
lead a short Evening Prayer at St Mary Magdalene’s church. It’s very near to
Ege University, and during the service a number of students came in, or looked
in through the open door. Something is happening here!
I can’t comment on the political scene in Turkey. At
present, everything seems very calm; most newspapers support the government,
but some are able to offer constructive criticism of its policies. Individuals here
are friendly and helpful; life seems stable. Refugees are given some support,
including basic medical insurance – provided they ‘sign in’ weekly.
We still haven’t had time to go beyond Izmir, but we have
had some culture. One afternoon we walked French Consulate on the Cordon, most
of which is now an art gallery. There was a fascinating exhibition – “The
Luminists” - of Belgian paintings from the late 19th and early 20th
Century. There was obvious influence from French Impressionist and
Post-impressionist artists, but with some distinctive emphasis on the effect of
light and reflection. It was free, with good notices in French and English as
well as Turkish. We also re-visited the City History and Art Museum, which
contains a wealth of classical statues from this area, and also ceramics and
jewellery. It’s the sort of collection which would attract crowds in London,
but was virtually deserted. We were approached by two 16-year old girls, who
wanted to practise their English, and asked us many questions! Another time,
while visiting the only bookshop in the city which has any English books, we
were asked by a young Iraqi teacher who was on holiday what English novels we
recommended. An interesting challenge! All the more regrettable that the
British Foreign Office shows little interest in promoting British culture in
the city. The British Council withdrew over ten years ago, and there is no
Consul, just consular staff to deal with enquiries.
We’ve had some treats. After the Bornova Evening Service,
we were taken to a restaurant up in the hills behind Karşiyaka, which has wonderful
views over the city and the Gulf of Izmir. It also served some very good lamb
kebabs and salad! And going, with a couple of others, to see a church member
who has not been well, we were treated not only to some stimulating
conversation, but an excellent Iranian bean soup, and some delicious Korean
rolls and Turkish cake.
The interviews for a permanent chaplain take place in
London on Wednesday. It’s a challenging job description, involving the role of
port chaplain for the Mission to Seafarers, as well as priest of St John’s - effectively
the only English-language church in a city of over 3 million people. But we keep
seeing great opportunities, and the core congregation here are so committed and
supportive. The weather has been less favourable; we had masses of rain during
the week, which led to flooding around the church and various leaks within.
Fortunately, they have installed good central heating in the chaplain’s flat,
so we’ve been warm, and able to dry washing. But we’ve still managed to walk on
the Kordon most days before breakfast – watching out for pelicans, and
different kinds of cormorant on the sea.
Please pray for:
The interviews in London on Wednesday.
The Lent Bible study on Ephesians, and the sermon course
on the Seven Last Words.
The Tuesday Evening Prayer service at Bornova.
‘Our’ refugees.
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