Izmir Revisited

IZMIR REVISITED

Our second visit of 2018 was longer than our previous one week stay, but still shorter than in other years. We were there for just over three weeks. In many ways that was too short, as we had to fit a lot in during that time. The weather was typical of Izmir in August: hot all the time. It rained heavily once – and that didn’t touch the central part. Once again, we praised God for air conditioning, which at least enabled us to sleep.

St John’s church is doing well; most of the same people are still there, but it was good to meet some new members. James Buxton is clearly doing some good work, and has attracted new believers (four of whom had been baptised, by immersion, on Trinity Sunday after attending an Alpha course.

Michael celebrated and preached at three Sunday Eucharists, which seemed to go well. They are a remarkably good congregation to preach to, given that most weeks English is the first language for less than a quarter of them. Jo was able to play her full part, by sharing in leading the service, leading the intercessions and assisting with the chalice. On our final Sunday, we felt moved to offer prayer ministry, and almost half the congregation stayed for laying-on of hands and anointing.

Our stay covered four Wednesdays, so we had time to do a Bible Study on the Letter of James, with up to nine people attending – commendable, given that most – only a couple of whom were English-speaking - had to travel some way across town in the heat of the day. Each week we had good discussion and prayer. We also travelled to St Mary Magdalene’s church in Bornova for the Tuesday evening prayers, as well as joining in the Tuesday morning prayers of the New Frontiers church that share the use of St John’s church.

We visited three members – two of them out of town: one for a barbeque and prayer, one to meet a new baby; and we had supper with a lovely Iranian couple who have had some difficulties. We also had a time of prayer ministry for a regular member and her daughter from the States. Two people came to us for a meal.

We can add to that one evening out on the town with Şeyma and Berk, the young couple we’ve seen each visit; it’s touching that they seem to enjoy our company; coffee with one of their friends we’ve got to know, and breakfast with Canaan, Şeyma’s sister and another of Jo’s former pupils from St Sidwell days. (A full Turkish breakfast is a thing of wonder – various dishes to choose from, endless cups of tea, and coffee to finish. It makes most British brunches look a bit inadequate!)

So we feel we used our time to the full. The friendliness of young Turks is delightful; one assistant at the supermarket we usually shopped at always called out ‘Hallo’ when she saw us – and on our last visit used Google Translate on her phone to say ‘You are so sweet’ (something that’s never been said to me in the Axminster Tesco!) And we continued to benefit from the regularity with which we were both offered seats on crowded trains and trams.

More seriously: we’ve experienced some sort of crisis each time we’ve been to Izmir. This time it was the threat of American sanctions, which, combined with the rising inflation in the country, pushed the value of the Turkish lira to a new low on the exchange markets. (It came too late in our stay to benefit us much!) There are various suggested reasons for the financial problems – excessive borrowing to pay for large infrastructure projects, and some unwise government policies among them. So life is becoming more difficult for many local people.

The American reaction focussed on the continuing legal process against Andrew Brunson, an American minister who has been leading a small Turkish-speaking church which meets in premises not far from St John’s. By all accounts, he is very committed to his ministry and to evangelism, with a number of converts in his church; the accusations of spying and involvement with terrorist groups seem absurd. But he is a useful pawn for President Erdogan in seeking the extradition from the USA of the Muslim cleric he was formerly allied to, but who is now accused of masterminding the failed coup of 2016. The unfortunate effect of some of Trump’s posturing is to make Andrew Brunson look more important than he is. The good news is that he has been released from prison, but he is confined to his home. At least he is back with his family, and friends can visit him.

However, at the moment there does not appear to be any general threat against Christian churches or their leaders. A group of various denominational leaders in Istanbul issued a statement while we were in the country, asserting that they had not experienced any restrictions on their activity. There are no restrictions on the Izmir churches; the police guard by the church and the British consulate remain very relaxed and friendly.

President Erdogan has now been given extensive powers, which seem to be subject to minimal checks and balances. The situation will become clearer as time passes, but his direct power to appoint ministers, control the military and dictate to the judiciary must cause some concern. But he clearly won the election earlier this year. That said, Izmir itself still feels very open and inclusive. Only a minority of women wear the hijab, and burqas are a rare sight. But Ataturk’s founding vision of a totally secular society has largely been abandoned, with Islamic values being asserted more at national level – though, as I said, with no significant restrictions on other faith communities. Despite the economic problems, Izmir’s infrastructure is being improved, with a smooth new tramway, and some improvements to the coastal foot and cycle paths. The suburban railway (Izban) has also been extended south, which makes it easier to get to Selςuk and Ephesus (which we visited for the fourth time!)

We continue to be rather concerned about the asylum-seekers at St John’s; there are now six or more from Iran. Those we know best have been in Turkey for around three years, and there is little prospect of their being able to move on to third countries, as most of them seem to have closed their borders, or adopted policies of discouraging all attempts at immigration. Turkey has been remarkably open and generous in allowing well over a million people to enter – but these live in a kind of limbo, with restrictions on where they may live and what they can do; though they do get basic healthcare, and there seems to be a readiness to allow them to study.

We have always enjoyed our visits to Izmir, and feel encouraged by the continuing vitality of St John’s, and its central importance as a Christian presence in the city. For understandable reasons, there has been a certain downplaying of the times the church is open – but when it is open, there are always visitors, usually young people, many of whom are happy, and free, to ask questions and receive leaflets about the Bible and Christian faith.

St John’s feels like ‘our’ church in many ways; we will continue to pray regularly for them all – and ask you to remember them too.