Three more weeks in Izmir

We spent three weeks in Izmir in September.

Personal

It was interesting to be back there for a fifth time. It’s all very familiar. The city is big and noisy. One is continually crowded by people, and trying to avoid the delivery scooters which weave in and out on pedestrian ways. It’s not beautiful in itself; but the setting is lovely – hills all around and the curve of the large bay leading to the Aegean.

The weather was beautiful: hot, but tolerable, with cooler evenings and mornings, which made sleeping easier. We have seen most of the sites before, and didn’t have time to explore new territory, but we enjoyed walking by the Aegean and around the city. We had take one rail trip - to Foςa, where we had an excellent fish lunch beside the harbour. 

Izmir International Fair was held in Kulturpark during our stay, so we paid it one visit – but, rather disappointingly, the main halls, with exhibits from China and India, only opened in the evening, so we missed them. But we were able to wander around the bazaar and the food stalls.

We had one real cultural treat. The excellent Arcas Art Gallery (in the former French consulate) had an exhibition of Picasso’s work for the stage, including his designs for scenery, and the costumes for a couple of ballets. As the latter are held by the Paris Opera, we had never seen them.

The weather made it easier for Jo to walk, despite her arthritic hip, so we clocked up a few kilometres.

Above all, we enjoyed meeting some old friends (though they are mostly much younger than we are!). We had supper with a couple who got married last year, and with the Iranian family at church; we also met another friend for coffee.

Church

We had three Sundays at St John’s. It was encouraging to see that the numbers have increased slightly. There are some new, recent, Turkish and Iranian converts from Islam, and some American teachers; it is apparently hard to attract many of the British ex-patriates who work in Izmir. I think there were at least one or two visitors each week. The impression is of a healthy congregation. The church continues to be opened a couple of days a week, and people (mostly young Turks) come to look inside – an opportunity for some gentle outreach.

We also took two Evening Services at St Mary Magdalene’s Bornova, which has a small regular congregation; and we led two Bible Studies, which were enjoyable and worthwhile.

Turkey

There were no signs of much change in political and public life. The President’s party failed to keep control of Istanbul in mayoral elections earlier this year, and the re-run he demanded resulted in a larger majority for the opposition candidate. (The opposition party has dominated Izmir for some time.) Some members of Erdoĝan’s party have split to form a new party, so he is perhaps a little more subdued at the present.

One concern is that there has been a clampdown on foreign church leaders who preside over predominantly Turkish churches. As a result, the American pastor of the Lighthouse Church (which shares the use of St John’s) has had his residence rights withdrawn, as have others from that network. The church itself continues to meet, but with Turkish leadership. However, there does not appear to be any threat to the Anglican Chaplain or church.

Indeed, James thought that, paradoxically, on the whole life is easier for Christians under Erdoĝan than it had been under some of the aggressively secular governments of the past. Perhaps a sign of this is that the government last year contributed to the restoration of a major Orthodox church in Istanbul, and the Izmir municipality is paying for new roofs for St John’s and its hall.

Our refugee friends are finding life more difficult. The Turkish government has taken over all responsibility for asylum seekers, effectively marginalizing the United Nations. And they are restricting their rights. The policy is to ‘place’ all refugees in smaller cities, and to limit their ability to move around. So one church member is unable to come into Izmir for Bible study or to visit friends. And the Iranian family who live near the church are facing problems in finding a school place for their six-year old son in Izmir, as they are officially registered in Manisa.

At the root of the problem is the large number of refugees and asylum seekers in Turkey (3 to 4 million), many from Syria and Iran, which both have borders with Turkey. The government plans to send a large number of Syrians back over the border into Kurdish areas (which does not please the Kurds either.) There is also a concern that more refugees are trying to cross from the Western coast to Greek islands like Lesbos and Chios, where the camps are already dangerously overcrowded and insanitary. Around the world, most countries have closed their doors or are imposing strict quotas on new immigrants.

Reflection

It was good to see our friends, and to find the church alive and active. But it was a relief to get back home, to the slow pace and peace of Devon. We’ve been away from home a bit too much this year (18 weeks on locum service), and pray for a quieter time for a while.