Coming Home

This is our eighth year of blogs – apologies that this one is late appearing.

We’re here; we knew that on our first morning when we were wakened by the first call to prayer, at around 4.30 am. Our journey had gone smoothly, and we moved into the Chaplaincy flat a week ago. It’s warm (hot by British standards), though we had a couple of cool rainy days. But we are back to sunshine now.

We were straight into work, with a Bible Study on our first afternoon; some people were physically present, others on Zoom. The ‘church cat’, Cleopatra, recognised us and came looking for food. Since then, we’ve done some of the regular things we do here – morning and evening walks to the Aegean, and along the Kordon (esplanade); a wander in Kultürpark (the site of the Armenian district destroyed in the fires of 1922.) Most days our breakfast has been a couple of gevrek (Izmir speciality – a sort of sesame covered bagel, but different) baked in a fiendishly hot oven watched by the queue of customers. It’s a delight to watch the skill with which up to 20 of these are pushed into the oven to bake in a matter of a few minutes – alongside another local speciality, kumru – delicious hot rolls filled with cheese and tomato.

Izmir always feels comfortable to come back to. It’s too busy and noisy – but it’s great to stroll by the Aegean Bay, surrounded by hills, and to see numerous swifts swooping around overhead. People are generally friendly, and it always feel a safe place.  Some things have changed. There seem to be more tower blocks spoiling our views, and the noise and dust from building sites can be tiresome. There are certainly more coffee shops – and tattoo parlours. There have been some improvements in the chaplain’s flat, and remedial work on the church (some paid for by the local authority!)

 I preached on Sunday, and Fr James celebrated. He had been leading a pilgrimage group round the Seven Churches. They increased the size of the regular congregation – but that has grown since last year, and there are more young people, mostly students. The worship experience is good, and they are good to preach to. After lunch we joined some of the young people at a coffee house for discussion. It’s stimulating to talk to people who have come (or are coming) to Christian faith from another background. Their desire to find out more is rich and stimulating. And there is some real commitment, We had a warm welcome, and it’s good to have met with old friends.

 Since then, we’ve taken Evening Prayer at the daughter church of St Mary Magdalene, in Bornova. The building has been well restored since our last visit, in 2019. There was an encouraging congregation of six, three of them students. Today saw another Bible Study, which went well. We prepare to celebrate Ascension Day (on Sunday.) We’re here for four more Sundays – and so I have the good fortune to preach also on Pentecost and Trinity Sunday

 Economically. Türkiye has had a difficult few years, with high inflation. (The exchange rate for the Turkish lira was about 7 to the pound in 2026; this year, it is nearly 50.) But there are plenty of shops, which seem to be busy most of the time. Politically, it is hard to say. Most people seem content with life. Izmir is open in its support for the opposition CHP (which was Ataturk’s party); but the CHP mayor of Istanbul is awaiting trial for corruption. There have apparently been moves towards a settlement of the long dispute with the Kurdish PKK party, which might bring some welcome stability and unity. It seems to be more difficult for refugees, after a number of years of generous welcome.

Thank you for your interest, and prayer support. My health seems to be fine, which is good, and we are looking forward to the rest of our time here. Photos of our activity can be found from time to time on Facebook.